Pinerolese DOC Ramìe
A handful of growers work this steep, south-facing mountainside of gneiss rock wedged between the Germanasca and Chisone rivers. The vitigni here are Avanà, Averengo, Beucet and Chatus: all the rarest of rare black grapes.
Each plant is staked by a giant toothpick into a narrow terrace which is supported by ancient dry-stone walls, and it shares its space with fruit trees and succulents which as seeds chanced to land in their own split in the rocks. Growers ride the terraces on monorail trenini and the scene recalls Mount Etna and the Cinque Terre.
This is true viticoltura eroica, where each vine requires hours of attention, mechanisation is simply impossible and yields are tiny. The wines are deep in colour, with that distinct mountain quality of being simultaneously extremely ripe (susine plum, woodland fruits) and elevated, ethereal and crunchy.