Tales from the regions: MTW in Valle d’Aosta

MTW – first steps

The high Alps of the Valle d’Aosta were the dramatic backdrop to James’s first steps towards what became MTW, by way of a research trip.  He spent three days developing the first hike, just a one-day trek of 12km, from the city of Aosta to Aymavilles.

The results of his research were unsatisfactory – too much road walking – but he did succeed in finding the exquisite Chambres d’Hôtes Le Rêve Charmant in Aosta’s historic centre. This b&b has been a cornerstone of all of our clients’ travels in the region ever since.

🗺️ ©️ MacNay Travel & Wine

Aosta, Rome of the Alps

This pretty city earns its moniker from its exceptionally rich collection of ancient Roman architecture. You can visit a large number of the locations, which are covered in more detail in our Aosta page.

Visitors can buy an inexpensive ticket which allows entry to five of the key sites – enough for an excellent day or two exploring the city.

Alongside the Roman and medieval locations, excavations in 1985 revealed the presence of extensive megalithic settlements at St. Martin de Corléans, on the edge of the city. This is now one the European Alps’ most important archaeological sites, and a very impressive visitor centre has been built around it.

📸 Simon Gilboy

Les Crêtes, the first connection

Back to the hiking. James’s destination in Aymavilles was Les Crêtes, one of the region’s most important wineries, and the first Valdostano winery he sold in the UK. The idea was to connect the pleasure of hiking with the appreciation of great wines.

As well as making excellent wines, the setting at Les Crêtes is one of the most spectacular in all of Italy. The image here (📸 Les Crêtes) is of their medieval tower, which sits atop a cone of glacial deposits planted entirely to their vines.

Next stop, Pondel

The next trip to the region, later that year, was more satisfying, and resulted in the designing of a perfect sequence of footpaths taking in some fine mountain views and the delightful, verdant orchards, vineyards and pastures of the central valley.

The question then was, what next? Having no better idea, James kept walking, and remembered a family visit to the dramatic Roman acqueduct at Pondel some years before. A look at the map revealed a footpath traversing it. The image here was drawn by a French visitor, Edouard Aubert, in the nineteenth century, and shows visitors enjoying this attraction even then.

The footpaths to reach Pondel were easier to find, but returning to the car – somewhat foolishly taking a high route over the top of a 1700m pasture – resulted in a 35km hike with 1600m of vertical gain, after which he decided to rethink his logistical arrangements. (Don’t worry – the final route navigates a very pleasant 15km through woodlands around the mountainside.)

Prié Blanc calling

Having entirely unexpectedly arrived at Pondel, it occured to James that he should next try to extend the hike to the vineyards at Morgex, at the farthest – and highest – reach of the central valley. He approached this final piece of the puzzle – a puzzle he didn’t know existed when he had first set out – with little expectation of success. There were still a lot of kilometres and several mountains in the way.

Morgex and La Salle are some of Europe’s highest white wine vineyards. This 20 hectare area is planted entirely to the rare Prié Blanc grape trained in distinctive Pergola Bassa. It’s a very special winemaking area to visit. Read more here.

📸 James MacNay

To Morgex and La Salle

Much poring over of maps ensued and everyone (James included) sucked their teeth and said it couldn’t be done.  Time was just about up out for the trip, so he had to take the last opportunity and set out (father-in-law waiting in the car at the other end this time) into a raging storm. Thunder, lightning, driving rain, the works. We’d never advise our clients go out in those conditions. On a steep trail past a waterfall, his map fell out of his pocket and got washed away. 

In this manner, he predictably took a wrong fork, and again found himself climbing much higher up the mountain than necessary. The path degraded and became more continuous rockfall than trail. A thunderbolt and flash of lightning arrived at the same time as a tremendous clatter from above announced the arrival of a herd of Stambecchi – Capra ibex – Ibex – shooting down the mountain as though it were a caprine race track. James jumped out of his skin and somewhere in the gloom and deluge far below, the father-in-law was beginning to get anxious (and hungry).

In the end the walk was completed, and a majestic one, at that.  Your arrival hotel is the magnificent Relais Mont Blanc, where you enjoy a rest day.

📸 Bernhard Pluskwik

Courmayeur, Skyway & Mont Blanc

Against expectations and without any sort of guiding plan, our route now extended from Aosta city to the head of the valley. And, what is more, we had connected the city to the wine regions at Aymavilles and Morgex – and all this with very little asphalt walking. Furthermore, our clients comment how well signposted are the trails, and how few people they see on them.

We were in touching distance of Mont Blanc, so the only thing left to do, it seemed, was to join the final dot.  The last hike is a very pleasant 16km through the Morgex vineyards and along the foaming Dora Baltea. 

One last task remains – and that is to include return tickets on the majestic Skyway cablecar, which takes our clients to the top of Mont Blanc.

And this trip, our first, we called Heart of the Italian Alps. It is a seven night, self-guided hike, with logistical support, starting any time during the summer months (subject to hotel availability). You can find out more here, or contact us to book.

📸 Skyway

Wine and hiking in Europe’s highest region

MTW runs three trips in the the Valle d’Aosta. The Five Days of the Matterhorn and Heart of the Italian Alps are both self-guided hikes. Then there is our small group accompanied trip, Spring in the Alps. This is on a fixed date in May: 2026 is fully booked, but let us know your interest for 2027.

Cinzia grew up in this mountainous region, and she still has a house which she rents out for skiing and summer hiking.

You can read our Valle d’Aosta page here, and about the wines of the region here.

📸 James MacNay

Buy the wines of Valle d’Aosta

UK customers can purchase the wines of the Valle d’Aosta from MTW.

The current wineries are Ermes Pavese and Les Crêtes. There’s also a uniquely beautiful ice wine from the Cave Mont Blanc co-operative.

Enquire for prices and other details.

📸 James MacNay